Gardone Riviera
Western shore
Grand hotels, a poet's eccentric estate and the best gardens on the lake
Western shore · Lombardy
A plateau of stone villages 400 metres above the lake, reached by one of Italy's great roads
Tremosine is not a lakeside town at all. It is a scatter of 18 stone hamlets on a green shelf between 400 and 600 metres above the water, with the cliffs dropping straight down to the Gardesana road below. Pieve, the main village, has a church, a couple of bars, a small square and the famous terrace that hangs out over the drop; the rest is hay meadows, cows, walnut trees and views across to Monte Baldo that change every hour. The only piece of Tremosine actually on the lake is Campione del Garda, an old cotton-mill village wedged in at the foot of the cliffs that is now a windsurfing hub.
It suits people with a car who want cool nights, real quiet and long walks, and who are happy to drive 20 minutes down to the water when they want a swim or a ferry. Families with teenagers who bike and windsurf do well here; anyone who wants to stroll to a harbour bar every evening should look at Limone or Gargnano instead. Below is everything we do when we come up, from the road itself to the cheese dairy and the military tracks behind Vesio.
01 Outdoors
The road from Porto di Tremosine on the Gardesana up to Pieve climbs through the Brasa gorge in a series of rock tunnels, hairpins and stone galleries, with the walls of the ravine closing in to a few metres in places. Winston Churchill is said to have called it the eighth wonder of the world, and the opening chase of the Bond film Quantum of Solace was shot here. It is free and open to cars and motorbikes, but coaches are banned and motorhomes must be under 3 m high. It was shut from 2 February to 13 March 2026 for rockfall work and reopened with its lower section, from the Gardesana up to the La Forra restaurant, permanently one-way uphill; a further closure is planned for autumn 2026, so check before you rely on it.
02 Sightseeing
The “terrace of thrills” belongs to the Hotel Paradiso at the edge of Pieve: a bar terrace built out over a 350-metre drop, with a glass section in the floor and the whole northern half of the lake laid out below you, from Limone round to Malcesine and Monte Baldo. You can walk out and look for nothing; buy a coffee or a spritz and you can sit on it as long as you like. It is open to non-guests through the day in season.
03 Outdoors
A marked footpath drops from Pieve down the wooded flank of the gorge to the tiny harbour at Porto di Tremosine, about 400 metres of descent on old mule steps and forest track with the road’s tunnels visible across the ravine. It is steep and rough in places, so proper shoes matter, but it is the best way to understand how cut off these villages were before the road was built in 1913. It’s one of the walks we cover in our pick of the best Lake Garda walks.
04 Beach & lake
Campione sits at the foot of the cliffs on a small fan of flat land, and because the mountains funnel the wind straight onto it, it gets the afternoon Ora more reliably than almost anywhere on the western shore. The former cotton-mill village is now a sailing and windsurf centre with schools, board hire, a hostel and a pebble beach. Beginners go out in the morning when the Pelér is gentler; the experts arrive after lunch when the Ora is blowing 15 to 20 knots. If you’d rather sit in a boat than stand on a board, see our guide to boat rentals on Lake Garda.
05 Food & wine
The plateau’s farms pool their milk at the Alpe del Garda cooperative, which makes Formaggella di Tremosine, a soft, mild cow’s cheese that is the local pride, along with harder aged wheels, butter and yoghurt. There is a shop with a counter for tasting and a restaurant that serves the cheeses in polenta, gnocchi and platters of cured meat. It is very much a working dairy, so don’t expect a tourist show, but it is the single best souvenir stop up here.
06 Outdoors
Behind Vesio the Valle di Bondo runs flat for a couple of kilometres, then a gravel military road climbs to Passo Nota at 1,208 metres and on to Passo Tremalzo at nearly 1,700, where a hand-cut tunnel through the ridge opens onto views down to Lago di Ledro. This was the 1915–18 front line and there are trenches and gun positions along the way. It is one of the classic mountain-bike routes in the Alps and features in our pick of the best bike rides around Lake Garda; walkers can do Passo Nota and back in about five hours.
07 Culture & history
Pieve has the parish church of San Giovanni Battista, a Baroque interior that is far grander than the size of the village suggests, and a belvedere beside it that is nearly as good as the paid terrace. From there the plateau road links Voltino, Vesio (the biggest hamlet, with the only proper grocery), Ustecchio, Sermerio and Pregasio, whose edge-of-cliff viewpoint above Campione is our favourite picnic spot. Each village has its own small church, wash-house and a bar that opens when it opens.
08 Evening
Evenings in Pieve are short and quiet, which is the point. Two or three restaurants have terraces on the lip of the cliff, the Miralago among them, and they serve the plateau’s food: formaggella melted over polenta, spiedo (spit-roast meat) on Sundays, lake fish brought up from Limone, and Valtènesi and Lugana wines from the southern shore. Prices are lower than at lake level and the view is better. Most kitchens stop taking orders around 9.30pm.
09 Family
The long pebble beach at Campione is free, backed by a strip of lawn and shaded by the cliff from mid-afternoon, with a bar, a paid car park and clear, deep water that gets cold quickly as you walk out. Children like watching the kitesurfers launch and the rescue boats buzzing about. It is the only easy swim for anyone staying on the plateau, and it is listed in our guide to the best Lake Garda beaches.
10 Sightseeing
The road south from Vesio winds through Prabione to Tignale, the next plateau comune, and the sanctuary of Madonna di Montecastello on its rocky spur 700 metres above the water. The church has a 15th-century fresco and a terrace that looks straight down the lake to Sirmione on a clear day. Between the two comuni the road passes lemon-house ruins, olive terraces and a couple of good agriturismi. Read our guide to Tignale for the full picture.
Places in Tremosine sul Garda that made our ranked Lake Garda guides.
Tremosine terraces and the Strada della Forra
#7 in Best Lake Garda Walks in 2027
View villa above Limone and Tremosine
#5 in Best Lake Garda Villas in 2027
Best for peace and quiet: the villages above the west shore
#7 in Best Lake Garda Holidays in 2027
Tremosine plateau via the Strada della Forra
#7 in Best Lake Garda Bike Rides in 2027
The only realistic way. From the south we leave the A4 at Brescia Est or Desenzano and follow the SS45bis Gardesana through Salò and Gargnano, then turn up the Strada della Forra (SP38) at Porto di Tremosine. The Forra reopened on 13 March 2026 and now runs one-way uphill from the Gardesana junction to the La Forra restaurant, two-way above that to the traffic light. Coaches are banned and motorhomes must be under 3 m high. A further closure is planned for autumn 2026; the alternatives are the road in from Tignale or from Limone via Bassanega. Pieve has a car park of around 110 spaces by the public park, and Campione has a large paid car park on the old mill site.
Navigazione Laghi does not serve the plateau. Campione (Tremosine) does appear on the 2026 summer timetable with a handful of calls a day; for a reliable service use Limone or Gargnano.
Arriva’s LN027 stops at lake level at Campione and Porto di Tremosine. The LN012 Gargnano–Limone–Tremosine climbs to Pieve and Vesio, but in July and August 2026 most Tremosine–Limone runs were replaced by HelloBus, an app-booked on-demand pilot, with only a few fixed early and evening runs kept. The nearest station is Desenzano del Garda-Sirmione on the Milan–Venice line.
Checked against the operators’ own websites on 28 September 2026. Timetables and prices change every season: confirm times with Navigazione Laghi and the bus operator before you travel.
Yes, if you have a car and like views more than harbours. The Strada della Forra and the Terrazza del Brivido justify a half-day detour from anywhere on the western shore, and the plateau behind them is the quietest green countryside on the lake. Without a car, or if you want beaches and evening bustle on the doorstep, base yourself in Limone and drive up for the day.
Yes, with a caveat. The Forra was closed from 2 February to 13 March 2026 for rockfall clearance and reopened with a permanent change: the lower section, from the Gardesana junction up to the La Forra restaurant, is now one-way uphill, with two-way traffic above that to the traffic light. A further closure is planned for autumn 2026, so check with the comune or your accommodation before you set off; the alternatives are the road in from Tignale or from Limone via Bassanega. Driving it is fine for anyone used to narrow mountain roads: go slowly, use the mirrors on the bends and sound your horn before the blind tunnel mouths. Coaches are banned and motorhomes must be under 3 m high.
Only with patience. Arriva's LN012 links Gargnano, Limone and the plateau at Pieve and Vesio, but in July and August 2026 most of its Tremosine–Limone runs were replaced by HelloBus, an on-demand service booked through an app, with only a few fixed early and evening runs kept, and there is no boat to the plateau, so you would spend a lot of the day waiting. The practical alternative is to stay by the lake and book a taxi or a small-group tour up the Forra, or to walk up from Porto di Tremosine, which is a serious 400-metre climb.
One full day covers the road, the terrace, the hamlets and a beach stop at Campione. Two days add the Passo Nota walk or ride and a proper meal on the cliff at sunset. As a base for a week it works well for walkers and cyclists, with day trips down to Limone, across on the ferry to Malcesine and along the plateau to Tignale and Gargnano.
It depends on the ages. Small children get bored on a plateau with no playground beaches, and the drives are winding. Families with older kids who bike, swim and windsurf have a great time: the Valle di Bondo is flat and traffic-free, Campione has schools for beginners, and the apartments and farm stays up here are far cheaper than lakefront hotels. We list the family-friendly options in our guide to Lake Garda holidays.
Late May to June and September to early October. Days are warm, the meadows are either full of flowers or being cut for hay, and the Forra is quiet. July and August are hotter than you'd expect at 400 metres and the road gets busy with day-trippers by late morning. From November to March many bars and restaurants close and the plateau can be foggy while the lake below is in sun.
In Pieve, at one of the cliff-edge terraces, where the local formaggella cheese, polenta and Sunday spiedo are the things to order, or at the Alpe del Garda dairy restaurant for a cheaper lunch of the same ingredients. Vesio has a couple of simple trattorie. For a fish dinner by the water, drive down to Limone or Gargnano; both feature in our pick of the best Lake Garda restaurants.
They are similar plateau comuni and many people combine them. Tremosine has the famous road, the terrace, and more choice of restaurants and apartments; Tignale has the Montecastello sanctuary and quieter, lower villages with olive groves and easier access down to the lake at its own small port. If you want to be nearer the water, Tignale; if you want the drama and the mountain-bike routes, Tremosine. Read our Tignale guide before deciding.
Limone, 10 km north, for the cliffside cycle path and the ferry across to Malcesine and the Monte Baldo cable car. Riva del Garda, 30 minutes by car, for a proper town with shops and the Varone waterfall. Gargnano and Toscolano Maderno to the south for the old Riviera villas and the paper-mill valley. Lago di Ledro, over the mountains via Riva, for a swim in warmer water.
No ticket: the terrace belongs to the Hotel Paradiso in Pieve and is open daily from 8am, with a free monitored car park for visitors, though the hotel asks that you buy a drink at the bar. The bar runs from 8am to 10pm and the restaurant serves lunch and dinner.
© 2026 Best of Lake Garda · Independent guides to every town on the lake, written and checked by Alex Burgoyne and Nicole. No one pays to be listed.